P R A D A

         There's one thing that Miuccia Prada does better than any other designer; she gives women what they didn't know they wanted. We have learnt not to forecast as each season she surprises us with unexpected shapes in colours we had forgotten existed. A/W 2011 sees Cardin/ Couregges-esque coats, shifts and furs in retro colours that suddenly felt new. All accompanied by big buckled and buttoned belts, bags and shoes, provocative sheer fabrics, python skin and sequins were made to feel innocent. Models' heads were adorned with hats which seemed to give me, 'aviator goes for a swim in the sixties' and red tinted mono-lens sunglasses which I predict to be the most re-blogged look of the season.

As opposed to last winters collection which celebrated a womanly form, Miuccia presented a straight up and down silhouette reminiscent of flapper girls or sixties dolly birds. There is more to a Prada collection than meets the eye. It's in the twists, the boots made to look like mary janes in python skin socks and conservative fronts with flirtatious exposed backs. Katie Grand, who styled Prada shows in the early and mid-Noughties says, "She (Miuccia) loves those naughty elements. Once she was standing in the studio in this very prim, calf-length, pleated white dress, you could see straight through it to her electric-pink underwear. That mixture of being very sober and then adding something quite shocking is totally Prada".[1]

Watch full show video.

Images from  http://www.style.com

[1] The alchemist, British Vogue, March 2011, p320.

Video from YouTube

MEN IN SKIRTS

'A woman shall not wear anything that

pertains to a man, nor shall a man put on a

woman's garment; for whoever does these

 things is abomination the Lord your God.'

 Deuteronomy 22.5

Togas. Frock coats. Kilts. Sarongs. Kaftans. All items traditionally worn by men. But what is acceptable male attire in today’s society? As long as there is fabric between the legs we’re happy, and comfortable? For many men, their female connotations are too potent to overcome their fear that by wearing a skirt, their gender identity might be brought into question.[1] Fashion designers, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Walter Van Beirendonck and Yohji Yamamoto continue to campaign against connotations of mens dress by presenting men looking entirely augmented and masculine. Photographer Mark Lebon comments, ‘The look (being men in skirts) was not intended to threaten a man’s masculinity, it was intended to enhance it’. [2] 

[1](From, ‘For many men’) Men In Skirts, V&A Publications.

[2] Interview with the author of ‘Men In Skirts’ by Andrew Bolton, V&A Publications. 

[3] Image, Tommy Hilfiger advertising campaign, Autumn/ Winter 1997-8. Photograph by Mike Toth.